Study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs based on a shock-capturing Boussinesq model     

《Applied Ocean Research》2019

This paper presents the results of a parametric study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs using the shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model Funwave-TVD to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of wave-driven flooding. Laboratory experiments were newly performed with a typical fringing reef profile and typical hydrodynamic conditions to validate the model. Experimental data shows irregular wave run-ups are dominated by the low-frequency motions and confirms the run-up resonant phenomenon over the back-reef slope, which has been revealed in previous numerical studies. It is demonstrated that irregular wave evolution and run-up over fringing reefs are reasonably reproduced by the present model with a proper grid size. However, the infragravity run-up height and highest 2% run-up height over the back-reef slope are under-predicted due to the underestimation of the infragravity wave height over the reef flat. The validated model was then utilized to model irregular wave transformations and run-ups under different conditions. Through a series of numerical experiments, the effects of key hydrodynamic and reef geometry parameters, including the reef flat width, water depth over the reef flat, fore-reef slope angle and back-reef slope angle, on the irregular wave run-up were investigated. Variations of spectral components of irregular wave run-ups were examined to better understand the physical process underlying the effect of each parameter.  相似文献   

平衡剖面的制作流程及其地质意义   总被引：9，自引：0，他引：9  

王运所  刘亚洲  张孝义  张剑峰  尹哲 《地球科学与环境学报》2003,25(1):28-32

平衡剖面技术是地质思维和计算机技术的结晶,使对断层构造的研究提高到定量阶段,其依据是在垂直构造走向的剖面上,地层长度和面积(2D)或体积(3D)是均衡的。在此原理基础上利用数学手段对盆地的构造发育史进行正演和反演模拟,直观地再现地下构造的原始几何形态,迅速提供地震剖面的构造解释方案,并对解释结果进行检验(不平衡的剖面其解释一般有问题),为深刻认识构造发育史、分析油气运移及聚集规律提供依据,提高了工作效率。其结果也为盆地模拟、油藏模拟、定量计算构造伸缩量等地质研究打下了坚实的基础[1]。  相似文献   

Spatial patterns and environmental risks of ringnet fishing along the Kenyan coast     

P Thoya  S Pérez-Jorge  GM Okemwa  H Mwamlavya  A Tuda  N Wambiji 《African Journal of Marine Science》2020,42(1):23-33

Ringnet fishing began in the early 20th century and is practised worldwide, mainly to target nearshore pelagic species. The method was introduced to Kenya’s coastal waters by migrant fishers from Tanzania. However, the impacts of this fishing gear remain poorly assessed. We assessed the spatial distribution of ringnet fishing effort and its possible effects on ecosystem components, such as coral reefs, marine megafauna and marine protected areas, on the south coast of Kenya. We tracked 89 ringnet fishing trips made from December 2015 to January 2016 and used spatial multicriteria analysis to determine hotspots of possible environmental risks. The results showed that habitat type and bathymetric profile influenced the spatial distribution of ringnet fishing effort. Mixed seagrass and coral habitats had the highest concentration of the effort. Most of the habitats in the study area were moderately exposed to the impacts of the ringnet fishery. The study identifies high-risk areas that require spatial measures to minimise possible environmental risks of the gear both to habitats and to endangered sea turtles.  相似文献   

Cyclone and bioturbation effects on sediments from coral reef lagoons     

Martin J. Riddle 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》1988,27(6)

Despite the severity of tropical cyclone ‘Winifred’, which crossed the Great Barrier Reef on 1 February 1986, there were little long-term effects on lagoon surface sediments from reefs in its path. Short-term effects were apparent only at one particularly exposed area. These were: an increase in proportion of the coarse fraction, the establishment of sand ripples, and the destruction of the mounds produced by callianassid shrimps (normally the dominant topographic feature). Within six weeks this area was indistinguishable from a typical reef lagoon. This is probably the result of sediment reworking by callianassid shrimp, involving selective burial of the coarse fragments and transport to the surface of finer particles. Sediment turnover rates by callianassids are commensurate with change to the sediment within the relatively short period observed. The sediment fauna responded quickly to the changes in sediment type. Immediately after the cyclone the disturbed area supported a fauna typical of the coarse sediments on the shallow reef flat, as the sediment reverted to a more normal type so the fauna changed back to that typical of a reef lagoon.  相似文献   

南海西沙海槽地区的海底热流测量   总被引：20，自引：0，他引：20  

徐行  施小斌  罗贤虎  刘方兰  郭兴伟  沙志斌  杨小秋 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》2006,26(4):51-58

为了解南海西沙海槽区的地热特征,利用Ewing型地热探针在该区开展了地热测量,并利用TK04热导率仪测量了相关站位表层沉积物样品的热导率,获得了7个站位的热流数据。结果表明,研究区7个站位的热导率变化范围为0.88~1.06 W/m.K,平均为0.96 W/m.K,地温梯度变化范围为85~120℃/km,热流值变化范围为83~112 mW/m2,平均达到95 mW/m2。分析表明测量结果与20世纪80年代中美合作在西沙海槽的地热测量结果一致性较好,说明研究区仍具有高热流特征,推测高热流特征可能与本区高热背景、莫霍面埋深较浅、断裂发育、晚期岩浆活动和基底起伏等有关。  相似文献   

The contribution of atmospheric acid deposition to ocean acidification in the subtropical North Atlantic Ocean     

Nicholas R. Bates  Andrew J. Peters   《Marine Chemistry》2007,107(4):547-558

The absorption of anthropogenic CO₂ and atmospheric deposition of acidity can both contribute to the acidification of the global ocean. Rainfall pH measurements and chemical compositions monitored on the island of Bermuda since 1980, and a long-term seawater CO₂ time-series (1983–2005) in the subtropical North Atlantic Ocean near Bermuda were used to evaluate the influence of acidic deposition on the acidification of oligotrophic waters of the North Atlantic Ocean and coastal waters of the coral reef ecosystem of Bermuda. Since the early 1980's, the average annual wet deposition of acidity at Bermuda was 15 ± 14 mmol m^− 2 year^− 1, while surface seawater pH decreased by 0.0017 ± 0.0001 pH units each year. The gradual acidification of subtropical gyre waters was primarily due to uptake of anthropogenic CO₂. We estimate that direct atmospheric acid deposition contributed 2% to the acidification of surface waters in the subtropical North Atlantic Ocean, although this value likely represents an upper limit. Acidifying deposition had negligible influence on seawater CO₂ chemistry of the Bermuda coral reef, with no evident impact on hard coral calcification.  相似文献   

Horizontal spatial and temporal distribution patterns of nearshore larval fish assemblages at a temperate rocky shore     

Rita Borges  Radhouan Ben-Hamadou  M. Alexandra Chícharo  Pedro R  Emanuel J. Gonalves 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2007,71(3-4):412-428

There have been no previous studies of the composition of nearshore larval fish assemblages along the coast of Portugal. We aimed to describe the composition and horizontal distribution patterns of larval fish assemblages and their temporal dynamics near a rocky reef at depths shallower than 13 m (inshore) and at two miles (3.70 km) from shore (offshore), as well as along transects perpendicular to the shoreline, from the reef to 10 miles offshore (18.52 km). Samples were taken using 5 min sub-surface trawls at the rocky shore of the Arrábida Marine Park (W Portugal). A total of 1021 larvae were collected, belonging to 61 taxa inshore and to 29 taxa offshore. Along transects, 626 larvae of 52 taxa were collected. Most larvae belonged to coastal species associated with rocky reefs. Total larval abundance and diversity were higher from May to July, which is consistent with the spawning activity of adults. Diversity and total larval abundance decreased significantly with increasing distance from shore, both in the inshore/offshore comparison and in the transects, where this decrease was evident at a very small spatial scale (within the first mile from the reef). Species assemblages differed in the pattern of distribution, with most species clearly associated to the extreme nearshore. The distribution patterns obtained were independent of the spawning mode of species. Results are discussed in the light of the possible physical mechanisms that can potentially act at the Arrábida Marine Park to facilitate larvae retention and the role of larval behaviour.  相似文献   

Current trends of space occupation by encrusting excavating sponges on Colombian coral reefs   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Mateo López-Victoria  & Sven Zea 《Marine Ecology》2005,26(1):33-41

Some sponges of the genus Cliona (Porifera, Hadromerida, Clionidae) simultaneously excavate and encrust calcareous substratum, competing aggressively for illuminated space with corals and other organisms. To interpret current trends of reef space occupation, the patterns of distribution and size of three Caribbean species were examined at San Andrés Island and Islas del Rosario in Colombia. While Cliona aprica was ubiquitous, C. caribbaea (= C. langae) preferred deep and protected reef zones, and C. tenuis shallow and wave‐exposed settings. In contrast to the effect on other excavating sponges, chronic exposure to raw sewage did not significantly increase the abundance of the studied sponges. Substratum occupation/availability ratios showed a positive tendency of the sponges toward certain coral skeletons, and a negative or neutral tendency toward calcareous rock, indicating that establishment may be easier on clean, recently dead coral than on older, heavily incrusted substratum. High relief generally limits sponge size to that of the illuminated portions of the substratum. A generally lower proportion of small individuals than of larger ones indicates currently low recruitment rates and low subsequent mortality. Successful events of higher recruitment seem to have occurred for C. tenuis. These are related to the massive acroporid coral die‐off in the early 1980s and to asexual dispersion during storms, resulting in a current 10% substratum cover. Reefs with high coral mortality were and/or are thus more susceptible to colonization and subsequent space occupation by these sponges, although relief may prevent space monopolization.  相似文献   

Contribution of artificial reefs to the diet of the white sea bream (Diplodus sargus)   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Leitao  Francisco; Santos  Miguel N.; Monteiro  Carlos C. 《ICES Journal of Marine Science》2007,64(3):473-478

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西沙礁序列的磁性地层学研究   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

张明书  周墨清 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》1996,16(3):61-65

利用西沙群岛西琛一井３３０ｍ以上井段的１４９块岩心标本，用美国２－Ｇ型超导磁力仪进行了古地磁测定，获得了一个从更新世至中新世晚期包括布容，松山，高斯和吉尔伯特四个极性时及若干亚极性的磁性地层柱，为礁序列的划分对比，提供了新的依据。  相似文献